BEAUTY
David Lance Goines
Version of November 15, 1995(Begun on September 23, 1989)
"Beauty is truth, truth beauty;"
that is all Ye
know on earth, and all ye need to know.
- John Keats (1795-1821), Ode on a Grecian Urn (29)
And the true order of going, or being led by another, to the things of
love, is to begin from the beauties of earth and mount upwards for the
sake of that other beauty, using these steps only, and from one going on
to two, and from two to all fair forms to fair practices, and from fair
practices to fair notions, until from fair notions he arrives at the
notion of absolute beauty, and at last knows what the essence of beauty
is. - Plato (c 428-c 348 BC) Dialogues, Symposium 211 (30)
MAYBE THIS IS JUST A BAD TRANSLATION. Though the impenetrable load of
double talk that Plato has here shoveled out sounds nice (especially if
you don't really think about it but just let the words wash over you
like warm honey, and don't actually have to go out and do something with
them), it isn't good for much. When you try to figure out how you can
actually use Plato's ideas to make something beautiful, or evaluate
something to discover whether it is beautiful or not, you find that this
sort of philosophical lumber lets you down rather badly.
So to begin with, let's just forget about totalitarian anti-art Plato
and his incomprehensible ideal forms and the other-worldly mystic Saint
Thomas Aquinas, nasty lunatic John Ruskin and that sausage-gobbling
Kraut Hegel and all those old frauds and their transcendent hogwash.
Beauty is real. Beauty is the expression through art of wealth and
power. The vehicle by which beauty comes into the world is art;
anticipating the ideals of wealth and power, art gives form to the
standards by which society judges itself.
Art creates beauty. Art is the vanguard of taste, trumpeting fashion before it actually exists.
Art, like science, goes where the money is. If you follow the history of
art, you also follow the history of political power. Where is the nexus
of culture? Why, it is always where the most impressive military and
economic society of the day holds sway. Babylonia, Egypt, Athens, Rome,
Florence, London, Paris, New York, Los Angeles, Tokyo. These are, or
have been, centers of beauty, taste and art. Not coincidentally, these
also are or were centers of political and financial power. Artists are
paid to tell everybody what beauty is, and to display that beauty for
the glorification of their patrons.
Beauty is an index of leisure, which is itself an index of wealth, which
is an index of power. Flower arranging, for example, takes a long time
to learn and a long time to learn to appreciate. Poor people do not
acquire these refined tastes. For the poor, these tastes do not exist.
The subtleties of such things are totally lost on the poor. The poor do
not much like the art of Rauschenberg, Oldenberg, Klee, Arp or Pollock.
If they think of them at all, they think they're silly. Let's face it:
only the rich can afford aesthetics. When the poor want to become like
the rich they emulate the tastes of the rich.
About the only thing that is constant in beauty is that it is the
opposite of ugly. (31) Ugly, too is a constant. It is whatever the rich,
healthy, youthful, strong and powerful are not doing.
Beauty is constantly changing, and culture-bound. What one person at one
time finds beautiful, another person from another culture will often
finds ludicrous, incomprehensible and ugly. So few of our young women
wear brass hoops that stretch the neck, plates in their lips and heavy
facial or body tattooing. Hardly any men on the streets of New York
sport a penis sheath. We do not dye ourselves blue.
"Clothes maketh the man." - Mark Twain (attributed)
As an example of beauty in small, let us examine the infinitely fascinating arena of clothing fashions.
First, what was fashionable (beautiful) yesterday is absurdly
unfashionable (ugly) today. We can tolerate outdated fashion in specific
contexts, such as period costume in a play or film (though indeed it is
usually heavily modified to suit the modern aesthetic), but in real
life outdated fashion is not attractive. The more outdated it gets, the
more ugly it becomes.
Eighteenth and nineteenth century fashion makes much of the conspicuous,
even lavishly wasteful, use of fabric. Fabric, especially fancy fabric,
was expensive, and since everything was made by hand, clothing was even
more so. Common people had few clothes. Rich people had many clothes of
relatively sumptuous make. Rich people kept up with fashion, and poor
people mostly didn't. What rich people wore was, by definition,
beautiful. What poor people wore was, by definition, not. Rich people
had window curtains, and the poor who emulated them, such as my
"lace-curtain Irish," forebears, strove to work the sympathetic magic
and get rich by copying the rich.
In the latter part of our own dangerous century, we see little in the
way of obvious contrast between the clothing of rich and poor. We have
adopted as our models the class of performing artists (rock stars, movie
stars) whose clothing is more a product of the imagination (Flashdance,
Saturday Night Fever) than a concession to either the elements or
outward signs of wealth. We have put most of our effort into the body
itself, neglecting the outer integument. The poor have as little ability
to be "body fashionable" now as they did to be "clothing fashionable"
in the 19th century. Rich people jog and have a membership in a gym;
they watch their diets and are concerned with cholesterol; they do not
smoke; they do not drink to excess ("Just Perrier, please"); they do not
take drugs; they practice safe sex; they wear their seatbelts. Poor
people don't do any of this stuff.
Throughout most of the world's history, fatness was admired as a sign of
wealth, health and fertility; thinness was a sign of poverty, disease
and barrenness. In the case of fatness in a time of general food
shortage, the wealthy person is beautiful because he doesn't look poor.
In the case of thinness in a time of plenty, the wealthy person is
slender and athletic by way of contrast to those who have little leisure
for sport and health maintenance.